Larache

Larache sits where the Loukkos river meets the Atlantic, just 90km south of Tangier. Once a contested Spanish protectorate port, it retains an Andalusian soul — whitewashed walls, a sleepy plaza, and a medina that feels untouched by mass tourism. The nearby Lixus ruins, a Roman city older than Carthage, and the tomb of writer Jean Genet (who spent his final years here) make Larache one of Morocco's most literary and historically layered small cities.

Larache's history spans over 2,500 years. The Phoenicians established a trading post here, followed by the Romans who built the city of Lixus — now a UNESCO-listed archaeological site just 5km north. Arab dynasties controlled the port from the 7th century, before a succession of Portuguese, Spanish and Ottoman occupations. Spain held Larache from 1610 until Moroccan independence in 1956, leaving behind a distinct Andalusian architectural legacy that defines the city's character today.

The city maintains strong Andalusian musical traditions — malhun poetry and classical Andalusian music are performed in local cultural associations. The fishing community's rhythms set the pace of daily life; the port market at dawn is a local ritual. The Spanish-era central square (Plaza de la Liberación) remains the social heart where generations gather in the evenings.

• ✓Visit Lixus in the morning before the heat — there is almost no shade on the site.
• ✓The town is very walkable; rent a bicycle to reach Lixus and the beach easily.
• ✓Accommodation options are limited — book in advance or use as a day trip from Asilah (30km south) or Tangier.
• ✓The Thursday souk outside the medina is lively and entirely local.
• ✓Swim at Plage Ras R'mel, a wide Atlantic beach 3km from the centre — uncrowded even in summer.

CTM and Supratours buses connect Larache to Tangier (1.5h), Rabat (3h) and Casablanca (4h). Grand taxis run to Ksar el-Kébir (30 min) where the nearest train station is. No airport — closest is Tangier Ibn Battouta (90km).