Tafraout

Tafraout sits at 1,200 metres in the heart of the Anti-Atlas mountains, surrounded by an extraordinary landscape of pink and ochre granite boulders sculpted by millennia of erosion into surreal shapes. The town is the commercial centre of the Ammeln Valley — a densely terraced oasis of almond trees, argan and figs that turns white-pink every February when the almonds blossom. Tafraout is famous for two things beyond its landscape: the Aït Bahammou tribe whose members built much of Morocco's commercial infrastructure (every city has a Tafraouti épicier), and the painted rocks — giant granite boulders painted in vivid blue and purple by Belgian artist Jean Vérame in 1984.

The Ammeln Valley around Tafraout has been inhabited by Amazigh Berber communities for at least 3,000 years — Neolithic rock engravings of elephants, rhinoceroses and cattle (animals that lived here when the Sahara was green) are found throughout the surrounding mountains. The Anti-Atlas was never conquered by Rome and only nominally by successive Moroccan dynasties — it remained effectively self-governing Berber territory until the 20th century. The Aït Bahammou tribe developed a remarkable tradition of commercial migration: men would leave at 18 to run grocery stores (hanout) in Moroccan cities, returning home with their savings to invest in the valley.

The Almond Festival (Fête de l'Amandier) in February is Tafraout's defining cultural moment — the valley turns white with blossom, and the town fills with music, fantasia and local produce markets. Tafraout is the centre of Anti-Atlas Berber jewellery production — heavy silver fibulas, coral and amber necklaces, and distinctive triangular pendants are made by local artisans using techniques unchanged for centuries. The Aït Bahammou's commercial diaspora tradition means most families have members running businesses in Casablanca, Marrakech or Europe, giving the town unusual prosperity for its remote location.

• ✓The almond blossom (late January–February) is the most spectacular time to visit — the valley is carpeted in white and pink flowers.
• ✓Wednesday is souk day — the market draws Berber communities from the surrounding mountain villages.
• ✓A car or mountain bike is essential for the painted rocks, Ammeln circuit and rock engravings — the town itself is walkable but the sites are spread out.
• ✓Buy amlou directly from the women's cooperatives near the market rather than tourist shops — fresher, cheaper and the money goes directly to the producers.
• ✓The road south from Tafraout to Tiznit via the Aït Mansour gorge (65km) is one of Morocco's most dramatic mountain drives.

CTM bus from Agadir (3h) and Tiznit (2h) — one bus daily in each direction. Grand taxis from Tiznit. No train or airport — driving from Agadir (160km via Tiznit) or Taroudant (120km) is most practical. The roads are excellent.